Lair Davis (Our Man in Costa Rica)

My adjustment to living in Costa Rica has been extraordinarily smooth. Having visited here for so many years makes a huge difference, of course. Also, I did my homework and research. I was as prepared for expatriation as one can be, I believe.

All that being said, the “adjustment period” continues — and will continue, I believe, for the rest of my days. And that is good, in my opinion. It is what keeps me vital, excited with living. Each day I am here is still truly an adventure.

I am in a place where I don’t know the language very well (although I study diligently every day) and where I am just beginning to understand the culture (although I’ve read all the books in English about the culture and experience as much of it as is available to me).

An expat must adjust to the idea that she or he will be an expat forever. You will not become a tico! If full aculturation is your goal, frustration and disappointment awaits. One must enjoy “the process” of aculturation. Type A, results-oriented people have a hard time here, but not if they learn to “let go.”

That was me. I grew up in a “results oriented” culture, but I am learning how to live happily in a “process oriented” culture. I like it.

A friend asked me recently whether I took to Costa Rica immediately, or did it grow on me.

It was certainly love at first sight for Costa Rica as a whole. And yet, it continues to grow on me as I discover new bits of it, both culturally and geographically.

For example, when I first watched a tico version of a bullfight (the bull doesn’t get hurt, just confused), I was non-plussed. What was the attraction of such a weird event?

This year, when the bullfights were televised during the Christmas holidays, I watched them regularly and laughed and laughed. What a funny, uniquely Costa Rican event! I do believe it has grown on me!

Another friend asked me how many of my contacts are Costa Ricans, as opposed to foreigners whether North Americans or Europeans.

I think it would be a mistake for a future expats to believe that most of your friends and support network here will be ticos. Costa Ricans are very family oriented. Although they are extremely friendly and helpful, they are not quick to invite you into their inner circle, for several reasons, not the least of which are the language barrier and the fact that they are probably living beyond their means (this country carries the largest debt per capita in the world). Many ticos live quite humbly despite their outward appearance, and they would be embarrassed for you to see the inside of their homes.

Expats here are really quite friendly and supportive of each other, much more so than I had expected. I thought the majority of expats to be “rugged individualists” - “people who (didn’t) need people” - but I have found them to be quite social. Many are thoroughly delightful. They will become your closest friends and acquaintances here - and there are plenty of us here to choose among.

The following is a paragraph written by another expat who lives in the next town over. It sort of sums it up:

“If the only way I could move here was by leaving everything behind and getting by with whatever I could afford to buy here, I wouldn’t have a moment’s hesitation. I absolutely love living here. I love the people and have made many great friends. I love the country, the beauty, the weather (except for the wind). I love the food. I love learning Spanish (although it’s a real struggle) and living in a new culture. I love all the great new experiences I’m having. I love being retired, which I could not afford to do in the U.S. I love the medical system. I love the bus system. I love the cheap taxis. I love the free time I have, although I’m always so busy it seems I don’t have any. If I had a regret, it would be that I didn’t find a way to do it sooner.”

Gee, all this sounds like she and I both work for the chamber of commerce, doesn’t it?. Hmmmm, I wonder if there IS a chamber of commerce in Costa Rica!